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IGFA Corporate
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Fox offer some excellent ready made traces which are of crimped construction. I have found them to be extremely reliable. At some time, you may wish to make your own traces and save a little money, especially by cannibalising parts from damaged traces. Even better still, you will be able to customise them to your exact requirements.
Crimping is very easy if you use the correct crimps (supplied with all packs of Carboflex wire) and a dedicated crimping tool rather than a pair of pliers which is strongly advised against. The Fox crimping tool is designed to give the exact pressure to do the job properly. When crimping your own traces, simply copy the design of a shop bought trace.
Many anglers don't like crimps or are not confident of their ability to do the job properly. With the correct procedure, crimping really is a doddle and anyone can make good reliable traces. For those still not convinced, or those who demand the highest reliability, let me take you through the construction of my standard trace which is secured by lock knots and twisting and is totally reliable when made correctly. |
What You Will Need
First of all, gather together the components and tools. You will need:
- 30 lb Carboflex wire
- Size 5 swivels
- Size 6 treble hooks (Barbed or semi barbed to suit your requirements.)
- Fox treble sleeves (medium and large)
- Fox tapered crimp sleeves
These instructions are for my standard trace for general pike fishing. You may wish to customise by using smaller or larger trebles and swivels and corresponding rubber sleeves.
For zander, for example, use size 8 trebles with a small treble sleeve and size 7 swivel. For bigger pike baits use size 4 trebles with large treble sleeves. You might even go up to 40 lb Carboflex wire.
Diagram 1 Cut a 20 inch length of 30 lb Carboflex wire. Allowing for wastage, you should end up with an 18 inch long trace. Push one end through the swivel, form a loop and push the end back through.
Diagram 2 Pass the swivel through the loop, pull tight and, using your thumb, roll the loop of wire over the eye of the swivel to form the first stage of the lock knot. |
Diagram 3 Do the next step very carefully, trying not to kink the wire. Grip the loose end with forceps and gently pull simultaneously on the loose end and the main length of wire. Gripping the forceps between your wrist and body helps while you use your hands to pull on the main wire.
Diagram 4 Most of the pressure is on the forceps end and you are trying to ease the knot together without kinking the wire. The final pressure is on the forceps, getting a good tight knot and preventing kinking of the main wire.
Diagram 5 Use the forceps to spin the loose end around the main wire, 5 or 6 turns is enough. This demands a firm grip and a sharp eye but it can be done very neatly after a few attempts.
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Diagram 6 Trim the wire and slide on a large Fox treble sleeve. This looks neater and also stops anything from catching in the turns of the wire.
Connecting the Top Treble
Diagram 7 First of all slide a Fox tapered sleeve up the wire, thin end towards the swivel. Secure the treble using the lock knot shown for the swivel.
Diagram 8 Instead of twisting to finish, pass the wire around and through the eye of the treble so that it is in the right direction for adding the bottom treble.
Diagram 9 Push the tapered sleeve over the top treble shank for a neat finish. If you have looked at my Pop up link instructions, you will see a further advantage of this sleeve.
Connecting the Bottom Treble.
Diagram 10 Now slide on a Fox treble sleeve. Secure the bottom treble using the lock knot shown for the swivel. The trebles are normally about three inches apart for 6/7 inch long baits.
Diagram 11 Trim the wire and slide the treble sleeve over the knot.
This trace is extremely reliable and the coated wire will normally account for more pike than a standard uncoated wire before needing changing. Naturally, you should change your trace at the first sign of doubt. Knowing how to quickly tie up another one will help you make a wise decision. |
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